From Dusk Till Dawn

As my time in Mozambique is nearing its end, I realise that I haven't done a single piece on Maputo's nightlife. Hence this item dedicated to the prowlers of the night and their hunting grounds.

Whenever anyone in this town starts about Maputo's nightlife there's one single word that is immediately uttered... Coconuts! Coconuts is the disco in town. actually it is not in town, but just outside of it long the beach. It is a large half open club which is mostly dance floor. People here don't mostly hang around to look at the few daredevils cramped on a small dance floor. Nope, people here dance! All night long!

Music is mainly African style hiphop, R&B with some dance tunes in between. Since my first time there in June until today the biggest floorfiller is still 'Rise Up' by Yves Larock. I absolutely cannot hear My dream is to fly...Over the rainbow...So high! again. The place is mainly filled with local people between 18 and 35, with some plucks of foreigners left and right.

Coconuts is not by itself as it is part of a complex that includes a restaurant, an outside swimming pool, some pool tables and Club Lounge. This is my personal favourite.You'll be shocked when you walk in there the first time. It looks like a proper trendy lounge and the DJ plays mostly underground house beats. For a second there you'll think you're in Amsterdam or New York. Not Maputo in Sub-Sahara Africa!

The place is more expensive than its neightbour and therefore attracts a slightly older crowd. Age here ranges from 25 to 40 and the number of foreigners is higher. It is the trendy place and all local hotties parade on the dance floor, possibly in search of a cute foreign boyfriend? Of course that rules me out...

Next to the Coconuts/Lounge complex is another large complex with a restaurant Meat & Co, the Polana Casino and the Zsa-Zsa bar dancing. This dancing is extremely middle of the road golden oldies. And that is not only the music, but also the people. Most women look like they attended the auditions for the popular eighties series the Golden Girls. Age there is 40+. This place makes Hofman look like kindergarten.

On Thursday the legendary place is the Africa Bar. This starts with life music around midnight which lasts until 01:30 am. Than the DJ takes over and the place really starts jumping. This is a pick-up place where mostly foreigners pick up local ladies. Friday being a workday means I haven't been there that much. I did last night with a bunch of colleagues after my farewell drinks at Mundo's.

Mundo's is the sportsbar here and right next to my hotel (photo by Astrid). It is where you watch a game, eat the best pizza in town and have a few alcoholic starters before hitting the real night life. It is also the only place where you'll find a reasonable lot of people on the weekdays.

On Sundays people hang out at Nucleo do Arte. It's more or less a house with a small art gallery, a small bar and an even smaller stage. It's actually not really a stage, but a 4 square meter space in between de window and the couch. I've seen bands with 5 members play there! The crowd is very artsy and studenty, with local boys with dreadlocks (which of course play some sort of drums) hitting on impressionable young white (mostly American) women wearing African wrap around dresses. You know the kind. "In touch with the local people"....

Then there is the live joint called Gil Vicente, which is right next to our bank. I already wrote extensively about that place back in July in an entry names 'Bourbon Street?'. Other party places include Sheik, Havana, Xima and Macaneta, but I have not frequented these. These are mostly places which play local danceable music in the style of Merengue and Salsa. Even though I am from the Caribbean, it is not really my thing.

Oh well, time for me to hit the night life. I'll start at Mundo's and then probably head off to Lounge. Given that the sun comes up quite early here, it'll be dawn by the time I get back to the hotel. Enjoy your evening. I know I will mine!